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48 Hours in SW1: How to Do London Properly (Starting from Pimlico)
By Nestor Stay · 6 min read · The Regency, SW1P
A two-day itinerary for people who want to feel like they live here, not like they’re visiting.
There’s the London that exists in travel guides — the Tower, the Palace, the obligatory phone box — and then there’s the one that people who actually live here navigate quietly and well. This is firmly the second kind. Two days, starting and ending at The Regency in Pimlico, with no queue, no tourist bus, and no pretending Big Ben counts as a personality.
DAY ONE
Morning: Pimlico Road, Done Properly
Pimlico Road is one of those streets that London keeps quietly to itself — eight minutes on foot from The Regency, and a world away from the tourist drag. Antique dealers, independent interiors boutiques, and two of the neighbourhood’s best breakfast spots sit side by side on a street that feels genuinely residential rather than curated for visitors. Daylesford Organic is the choice if you want to spend money well on breakfast. The Orange does a brunch that’s reliable without being smug about it.
Daylesford Organic
Nestor PickThe right choice if you want to spend money well on breakfast. Organic produce, excellent eggs, and the kind of space you don’t want to leave in a hurry.
The Orange
A very good brunch in a room that feels like it has always been there. Reliable without being smug about it — which, in London, is harder to pull off than it sounds.
Late Morning: Tate Britain
Ten minutes on foot from The Regency along Millbank, Tate Britain holds the greatest collection of British art in the world — and is, for reasons nobody has adequately explained, substantially less visited than the Tate Modern across the river. Turner, Hockney, Hogarth, Bacon, Freud: all here, all walkable from Pimlico, with no queue at the door. Turner’s late paintings in Room 1620 are worth the trip on their own. The Millbank walk back along the Thames is one of the better riverside stretches in central London — particularly in the late afternoon, when the light on the water does something close to theatrical.
Nestor Local Tip
The late afternoon light on the Thames near Millbank is worth the walk on its own. Time your visit to finish around 4pm and take the river path back — it’s one of those London moments that doesn’t make it into any guide.
Afternoon: Chelsea
Chelsea is 15–20 minutes on foot from The Regency — close enough that taking the tube feels like a failure of imagination. King’s Road is your main drag: independent shops, good cafés, and the kind of unhurried people-watching that makes you grateful you’re not on a schedule. Sloane Square is a few minutes further and has a different energy entirely — more purposeful, slightly charged. The grounds of the Royal Hospital Chelsea, open to the public and almost entirely unknown to visitors, are the area’s best-kept secret: proper lawns, the occasional Chelsea Pensioner in scarlet, and an improbable amount of quiet for somewhere this central.
King’s Road
Chelsea’s spine. Independent shops, good coffee, and people-watching that rewards a slow pace. No tube required from Pimlico.
Sloane Square
A few minutes beyond King’s Road, with a more purposeful energy. Worth a pavement coffee and a slow look around before heading back.
Royal Hospital Chelsea
Nestor PickOpen to the public, almost entirely unknown to visitors. Proper lawns, Chelsea Pensioners in scarlet, and a remarkable amount of peace for somewhere this central.
Evening: Dinner
Pimlico is not a neighbourhood that shouts about its restaurants, which is part of why the ones that have survived here are worth trusting. Grumbles on Churton Street has been there since 1964 and makes no attempt whatsoever to be fashionable — which is precisely why it works. Straightforward cooking, neighbourhood atmosphere, the kind of place where you eat well and leave feeling like you actually had dinner rather than an experience. Alternatively, The Regency has a fully equipped kitchen and the supermarkets on Vauxhall Bridge Road are well-stocked. There’s a specific pleasure in cooking a good meal in a good apartment in a part of London that feels genuinely residential.
DAY TWO
Morning: Westminster on Your Own Terms
Westminster is 20 minutes on foot from The Regency, and doing it on a weekday morning before the tour groups arrive is a different experience entirely. Walk across Lambeth Bridge, follow the South Bank briefly, then cross back at Westminster Bridge. You’ll see Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, and the river all at once, without queuing for any of it. Westminster Abbey is worth going inside at least once — if the ticket price feels steep, the exterior and surrounding streets are themselves worth the walk.
The Westminster Walk
Lambeth Bridge, a stretch of the South Bank, back over Westminster Bridge. The best way to approach Westminster — no crowds, no queues, and a view that earns its reputation.
Westminster Abbey
Worth going inside at least once. If the entry price puts you off, the exterior and the streets around it are remarkable on their own. Go early — it’s a different place before 10am.
Late Morning: St James’s Park and Green Park
Walk north from Westminster into St James’s Park — London’s most central and most beautiful royal park. The pelicans on the lake are a genuine institution and always slightly surreal to encounter. Walk through to Green Park, which is quieter, less ornamental, and considerably better for sitting on the grass and feeling pleased with yourself for being in London.
St James’s Park
Nestor PickPelicans, a lake, and the kind of landscaping that makes you wonder how it ended up in the middle of London. Walk through slowly. The pelicans are fed at 2:30pm daily if you want a reason to linger.
Green Park
Quieter than St James’s and less visited. Better for sitting, reading, or doing nothing in particular. A proper park without the performance of being a tourist attraction.
Nestor Local Tip
St James’s Park at 8am on a weekday is London at its best: quiet, beautiful, and entirely unhurried. If you can get up for it, it’s worth the early alarm.
Afternoon: Battersea Power Station by River Bus
From Millbank Pier — 10 minutes on foot from The Regency — the Thames Clipper runs directly to Battersea Power Station. About 15 minutes on the water, views the tube can’t compete with, and roughly the same price. Battersea Power Station is now a shopping and dining destination worth an afternoon of wandering. The observation lift inside one of the chimneys gives you one of the better elevated views of London. Come back by river, or walk the Thames path — either way you’ll arrive back at The Regency having done a meaningful amount of London on foot and by water, without once touching the tube at rush hour.
Millbank Pier
Your departure point. Thames Clipper to Battersea runs regularly — buy the ticket on the Uber Boat app before you arrive. Cheaper than you’d expect, and considerably more pleasant than the Victoria line.
Battersea Power Station
Nestor PickFour chimneys, a lift to the top of one of them, and a shopping destination that’s actually worth the visit. Spend an afternoon. Take the chimney lift — the view of London from up there is hard to beat.
Thames Path Back
Walk back to Pimlico along the river instead of taking the boat. Past Vauxhall, along the Embankment, back to Millbank. A good way to end the day if the light is doing anything interesting.
Evening: End Well
Your last evening. Go somewhere good. The Victoria area has improved enormously in recent years — Nova restaurant complex is 10 minutes on foot and has enough variety to satisfy any mood. Or walk back to Pimlico Road for something local and unhurried. Or, honestly, come home to The Regency, put something good on the Smart TV, and have the kind of quiet evening in that cities make you forget is an option. Either way: well done. You did London properly.
Nova Victoria
Half a dozen restaurants in one development, any mood, any budget. The area around Victoria has genuinely improved. Worth the short walk for a final evening in London.
Grumbles
Nestor PickChurton Street, since 1964. Makes zero effort to be fashionable, which means it’s reliably excellent. The right way to end a good stay — local, unfussy, and better than it has any right to be.
Cook at The Regency
The kitchen is fully equipped. Waitrose is on Warwick Way. There’s a specific pleasure in a good meal in a good apartment that no restaurant can quite replicate — particularly when you’re not paying London prices for it.
The Regency is eight minutes from most of what made this weekend worth it. If you’d like to do it yourself, you know where to start.